Gorgeous Gorges

We set out one day for what could have been a long drive to see a couple of southern France's famous Gorges, but thanks to the A-9 and A-65, we were at the starting point within 90 minutes. First we paused at a view point near Millau, which gives a great view of the Millau Viaduct, allegedly the tallest longest (2km) viaduct in the world.

Millau sits at the convergence of the Tarn and Dourbie rivers, and at the base of their two beautiful Gorges.

Although it was nigh 1:00 pm and normally our lunch time, we were fortified with fresh local cherries and apricots, so we proceeded northeast up the long and beautiful Tarn Gorge

in search of the perfect local French restaurant overlooking the Tarn river. This beautiful Gorge has just enough space near the river for a road, an occasional village , and quite a few canoe or camping concessions.

First was a stop at a little village across the river, La Cresse for a picture of what looks like a renovated and scrubbed ancient house

and one in what appears to be left to nature over the centuries,

both built from stones from the Gorge. Even the roofs are thin layers of stone. We drove all through the village, but no sign of a restaurant or even a bar, so we consulted a map and pressed onward.

Then we found a nice restaurant in Riviere-sur-Tarn, serving a 12E menu lunch for Paul of salade, Pintaud (guinea hen) with scalloped potatoes and a desert of Cherry Clafoutti (not as good as Danice's, but tasty none the less). Danice had a Salade Roquefort with more local blue cheese than she had imagined possible and helped Paul with his desert, as is her way. Alas the restaurant was not on the river side of the road, but they did provide tables with umbrellas and a breeze overlooking a pleasant town park, and a friendly waitress who spoke "a little" English, which was just enough.

Off again, stopping at an ancient Chateau de Peyrelade, climbing all over which made for great exercise after a big meal. It was built at least as far back as the 12th century,

and was the scene of incessant battles and sieges until 1633 when it was dismantled on the orders of Richelieu, the chief minister under King Louis XIII's.

Further down the beautiful Tarn Gorge, huge granite walls towering above on either side, we spied another picturesque village across the river, La Sabliere. There are a number of these hundreds of years old villages that are just too great looking in the gorge settings. We love to think of the lives of the people who lived there over the centuries.

It was such a perfect summer day, warm but not too hot, I took a picture of Paul to remind him how it felt when we're back in San Francisco in the August cold.

We had thought of staying overnight in a scenic hotel in Sainte Enimie, but when we arrived it was only 5:00PM, over 4 1/2 hours of daylight to go, and the town seemed overcome by tourist attractions, so we crossed the river and headed up the switchbacks to the top of the deep Tarn Gorge. We drove southwest across a beautiful plateau, then down a steep road into the Gorge de la Jonte,

(Paul thought it was cute seeing the rock walls high on the gorge through this bizarre rock.)

which we followed until its convergence with the Tarn River, then across the convergence and up up again to another plateau, descending again near Millau where the Jonte joins the Dourbie River very near where we had left the A-65 before lunch.

Only 90 minutes from there to our home, where at 9:00PM Paul created in 10 minutes a delightful meal of Fish Soup from a jar, fresh bread, salad and great cheeses. We unintentionally saved so much on a nice dinner and hotel by driving home instead of staying in the Gorges that we planned to go to a very good Montpellier restaurant the next day. However, the next day, we called the restaurant of choice and listening to the cordial French message, couldn't figure out how to leave a request for a reservation.... ignorance is rarely bliss. We sent an email to their website contact information, but have had no response. It's good that Paul is so adept at using local ingredients. We are eating well, but no great French cuisine.

Flash! We called again today during their lunch service and were able to speak to a kind Frenchman in a little English, a little French. We are now certain that we likely have a reservation for Saturday night. We hope we will have at least one meal of expert French cuisine. We plan to drive to Marseille tomorrow and will also see what foods we find there, sans reservation. If all this sounds as self-indulgent to you as it does to us, well..... it is!